Sorry I can’t be of more help. Leek and onion leaves are also edible for people and can be used in a variety of dishes, though you should probably avoid feeding them to pets such as dogs and cats as they can be poisonous to them. It’s always a learning process, isn’t it – and every year is a little different. Initially affected cloves have small, slightly sunken, light yellow areas. Did your plants in the ground have any other factors that might have made them mature more quickly? Here are some options and a few of my thoughts. What a resource – and a great way to share experience! Do nothing & wait and see – Always an option … (doing nothing is also doing something.). The only real controls involve chemicals. We harvested, dried and replanted last November. The sunny days continued, heated up, and there my garlic remained. The hardnecks are easier to peel – partly because their wrappers are a bit more loose, which also allows in more air, which allows faster deterioration. I have found that when I have gotten garlic from other parts of the country, even from very reputable sources, it often takes 2 or 3 years to acclimate to our conditions (wet winters; dry summers) – and some never do that well in our soggy winter climate. Tags: culinary arts, food, gardening, how-tos, kitchen, vegetables. Severely stunted, crumpled bulbs in spring might also be a vivid complaint about a rough winter or early spring freezes. It can reach epidemic proportions under the right conditions. “As for the rust – I had it really bad in 2012, but by the time it hit, the bulbs were already a pretty good size, so it didn’t affect my crop too much. Millipedes will curl up when you bother them. I am happy to report that I pulled a garlic plant out of the soil just yesterday to see how large the bulb was at this stage. Chalk it up to experience & this fall, try to minimize the number of cloves you plant that might be more than one. As one reader put it, “they are not really functioning very well anyway.” It might be an area where molds could develop or bugs hang out. I usually plant mine so there is a good 2 inches of soil above the tip of the clove. Don’t make it easy for miniscule spores to travel to new territory! Wilted leaves during mid-season: your plant might just be thirsty. Blythe, Peter – I was just looking up some information on nematodes, and found this on the High Mowing Seeds site: Build your soil. Pulling: With a small number of weeds, pulling, though difficult, is an option. It will also take over the bulbs in storage. Then again, perhaps something more nefarious is lurking beneath the surface, and further investigations are warranted. Garlic will transplant easily, but it’s best if you don’t have to. You can feel the difference. Hi Claudie! Continue building the soil and hope for the best – My theory is that the more you build the soil, the more you nourish the microbial communities that nourish the plants, which then become stronger and more resistant to disease and bugs. I always suspect fungal issues, but it could also be soil imbalances or uneven watering, both of which I have been guilty of. I am probably not a good person to ask, because I have been known to take garlic that is starting to mold, peel off the skins, cut out any moldy areas, & toss them in vinegar for my own use. The best preventative approach is to build the soil in a balanced way through compost; applying boxes of this and that can really throw things off. They’re usually about four inches underground. Make sure you start with disease-free bulbs Time to plant garlic - and a garlic problem A couple of weekends ago Jay and I cleared out our community garden beds. Best wishes, Creatures that love a particular kind of plant can build up in the soil, and populations can suddenly seem to explode, decimating your crop. It would dry out during the day, but then return in the evening. Any thoughts? Mosaic is caused by several different viruses that appear to be lumped under the “potyvirus” term. But now I know what happened, and thank you so much! Since Field Garlic has some poisonous look-a-likes (most notably Star of Bethlehem), it’s very important you learn to positively identify this plant before attempting to consume it. I will have to try that one. I have not experienced what you are describing at the junction of the scape (my experience is more at the base where it contacts the soil). Onion Maggots (Hylemya antiqua): These legless little white maggots will bore into the garlic stem underground. Well, I don’t know what exactly is wrong with it, but the outer layers are all slimy and when I peel them off my head of garlic just likes like a green onion. Does this fungus affect other crops that should not be planted in the affected soil? ~blythe, i planted half of my garlic crop about ten days ago, it has rained continuously since, about 4 inches some of the bed have been under water for as long as three days . Everybody says it’s one of the easiest vegetables to grow, and for me every year it turns out to be one of the greatest disappointments! If you find errors or additions, please let me know. I was really grateful my garlic pulled through. I pulled my garlic on a lovely sunny day and left it in the garden to dry before cleaning. One year, I was hit really hard with rust. Roots that are rotted off are a sure-fire sign, as is black around the neck. Of course, this doesn’t happen overnight, so it might not help your immediate situation — but certainly for the future. Green-onion size sounds about right for this time of year. Blythe. I like to plant a little extra just so I can spot-check now and then. Any suggestions why i am not getting the desired harvest of a full-cloved bulb? It’s like the bulb wasn’t quite finished making all the cloves. There are a few physiological disorders of garlic that may alarm the homeowner, but are of generally little consequence to the ability to grow or store garlic. Consider that each leaf represents a wrapper around the bulb — so if the outer leaves are yellow and the outer layers of the bulb are slimy, then my initial guess is that your bulbs experienced some damage through repeated freeze-thaw cycles that are so typical of Northwest gardens – or else they are just plain waterlogged. loves become soft, yellowish, and sticky. Could it be that an insect got in there, chewed a bit, and the stem softened near the wound? It conjures up images of the plague sweeping across a field of posies and we all fall down. I must start by saying that I have learned a lot through your website. In looking at Santa Cruz weather stats, it looks like you don’t get the necessary freezing temps. Best of luck to you on your crop! Maybe you could grind them up in a blender and mix with butter & then freeze for homemade garlic butter? I guess they got too dry. Some start out as spirals and then straighten up; some stand tall and robust with large leaves and fat stalks; others are much more slender with narrow leaves and are quite delicate looking. Any suggestions. We live in the rainshadow of the Olympic Mountains (Washington State). I have tried to plant garlic in pots indoor couple of times. Foliar sprays with compost tea and liquid kelp or fish fertilizer can be most helpful. And I’m not sure what variety of garlic I have because I inherited my first clove of garlic from a friend who has since passed away, but all the plants I have are from that first clove. The good news is that my Porcelains (from my own bulbs) and Marbled Purple Stripes (I had ordered from a different company) were harvested in July and they look wonderful. Is this fungus, rot or what? Donations through our secure PayPal account are gratefully accepted. For some reason, I never thought of removing the leaves – but as you know, the plant can still grow, even with very few leaves, and if you consider that photosynthesis is compromised anyway by all the rust, why not just get rid of it and reduce the dispersal, right? Sometimes it takes me awhile to find the time (especially at this busy time of year) to get to the computer stuff, but I do try to answer every person that takes the time to write me! After a mild problem with rust about 2 weeks before harvest last year, I had a major problem this year. Happy gardening, and thanks for getting back to me, Peter! The following is a quick summary of several of the fungi, insects, and other stressors that can affect the garlic crop. Pre-treat cloves before planting. However, yellow stripes, splotches, speckles, leaf curl, thickened leaves, purple veins, or other abnormalities indicate something more serious is going on: soil deficiencies, insect infestations, fungal growth. They might still come through. Fungal issues & nematodes are always my biggest problem; I have never had an issue with odd coloring. In May, I stop the nitrogen and switch to applications of fish fertilizer and liquid seaweed. No one knows what causes this. Sincères amitiés, Very sunny spot except mornings, naturally clayey soil but with plenty of natural compost amendment. Have looked at many internet sites for info with nothing that seems like this problem. should i pull them all up, and divide and then replant them? Blythe, Dear Blythe, Posted by 6 years ago. If it were me, I would get an inexpensive soil test kit and see what it says. Blythe… Not sure you have the time in this case. I have heard of spraying them with aspirin, but you have to do it before the rust takes hold, which is when I am swamped with spring planting, so I never seem to get around to it. I usually don’t pull mine until after the 4th of July, especially if I leave on the scapes. THe garlic I planted in the ground ended up being much larger, but more of the leaves were brown on the plants, which made me think that those plants matured faster than the raised beds. You can dig out around the bulb a bit and see how it’s doing. You don’t say where you are or when you planted, but garlic needs to go through a vernalization or cold period to form individual cloves. Look for swollen tissue at the basal plate, spongy tissue, splits where you’d normally see a bulb, yellowed skins, rot and decay. 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